Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city is no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children are reluctant to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to learn these narratives and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
